Sunday, February 23, 2014

Moving Day(s)


Due to an unfortunate series of events we've had to move three times in the last two week period in Panama.  When we first arrived a couple of weeks ago to our "luxury" rental off of VRBO we found a bare bones efficiency apartment on the ground floor of a property that only can be described as a borderline slum.  As you exited the apartment into the surrounding mosquito breeding ground they called a yard,  all you could see was garbage littered everywhere.  As an added bonus the stench of sewage hung heavy and a makeshift work area was right next door with a variety of broken down trucks where the kids could watch arc welding on a daily basis.  As if this wasn't bad enough, the place was poorly equipped also.  One pot, one pan a set of four plates and flatware were all that populated the kitchen.  The owner was well aware we were moving in with our kids so to say that was beyond disappointing is a complete understatement.  The first night we kept hearing a rattling in our room which turned out to be rodents on the side of the complex pillaging the garbage at night which was a fenced in cubby hole a mere 10 feet from the outside of our room.  As if this wasn't bad enough, frequent roach sightings in the first couple of days proved to be the final straw.  We decided to tell the landlord on day 2 we were breaking the 3 month lease promise and would only stay 9 days paying a ridiculous $155 per day for this total shit hole. 



Dinner Table Next to the Shitter - Luv Seat Made of Burlap and Steel = Luxury!
 
Roach Motel Beds:
 
 
Toasting in the hood with Gunniess will keep you sane:
 

With high season in full swing here we were lucky to find a house at the north end of Bocas that sat in the jungle at canopy level that was open for the four weeks we're planning on staying here.  The kitchen was better equipped than our own at home and the house sat on stilts at canopy level in the jungle.  This provided amazing views of parrots, hawks, massive trees and thickets of bamboo that look like they are straight out of Jurassic park.  The house was also filled with all kinds of cool knick knacks, but with the boys having glass vases filled with sea shells and breakable relics laying around isn't the best thing.  As we spent last week at Panama Fred's, we began to realize how really, really bad the internet connection was.  Since we were low on the hill, the Claro signal just couldn't get into the property which caused some serious issues with Melissa and work.  The house also worked on a rain catchment system which is only as good as the amount of rain you receive.  It's been unusually dry this week and even with all our conservation efforts we used the better part of one of the massive water drums housed under the house.  This also prevented us from using the community laundry facilities forcing to take our laundry into town to pay to have it done.  When we got it back none of Slater's clothing was in the bag and we gave them virtually everything he had.  Fortunately, upon returning the next day they produced a bag with all of his clothes and a few other articles that didn't make in back the day before.  This we decided again was too much to cope with even though the place was pretty amazing.  We approached Fred who let us out of the lease with a minor penalty so we could move into what is the perfect fit for us.
 
Panama Fred's House and Amazing Deck:


 
We moved into a surfer's house down the street we rented from our same property manager.  It is a beautiful house 30 feet from the water of Sand Fly Bay and set back off the road.  Hard wood floors, high end kitchen, incredibly spacious and has unlimited wifi.  We really scored with this rental which should keep us here for the next four weeks.
Bluff's House, Living Room & Outdoor Table with a Lake View:



 
Bocas Del Toro is hands down one of the most expensive stops on this tour.  We've spent triple our monthly budget having to rent a Jeep at $350 a week in addition to food costs being off the chart.  You can't pick up an item on the shelf of the grocery store here without a price tag of between $5-10 dollars.  The craziest prices are reserved for American products with a pack of bacon running $10.  It's not like the bulk one you get at Costco either.  It's the straight up regular size pack.
Bocas Del Toro is staggeringly beautiful.  We've already checked out Red Frog beach on Bastamentos Island along with Drago Beach which is at the north end of the Island of Colon where we currently are living.   Both offer clear warm water teeming with wild life and lacking crowds of people.  We have a lot to explore in the next four weeks too.  Starfish beach (which is exactly what you might imagine, a beach with hundreds of starfish floating in its shallow water) is next on the list this Saturday for Jordan's birthday.  The rental of the Jeep also gives us access to private property where monkey trails, a massive still water bay and jungle hiking await on the far northeast corner of the island for us.
Red Frog beach is an amazing bay of powder fine sand, clear water and tropical life:

 
 
Daddy Day Care on Playa Caranero while mom surfs the left point reef set up:


Surfing in Bocas has definitely been a step up experience for both Melissa and I.  We aren't even surfing any of the more critical barreling breaks either.  The breaks we've mainly surfed are Caranero Island which is a left point set up that breaks over a series of reefs and Paunch reef up the road from our house.  Both over 7 feet can have an incredibly steep or even barreling take off that opens up into a ripable wall of water well suited to work on top turns, cut backs or racing down the line to make a section when needed.  In the coming week, I'll be writing a short blog on these breaks in more detail.  For now suffice it to say that we've both got some amazing waves these first couple of weeks along with some of the most brutal beatings on blown waves we've experienced on this trip.


 
 

 


Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Nicaragua to Panama


On this trip the travel days have proven to be the most complex that we've ever undertaken.  This leg from Nicaragua to Panama definitely took the cake in the complexity department.  On paper it seemed pretty easy.  Part 1 - take a taxi one hour to Nicaragua boarder, Part 2 - cross Costa Rican Boarder hire taxi to drive to Liberia, Part 3 - Wake up early the next day and board Nature Air flight from Liberia to Tamarindo>San Jose and then finally Bocas Del Toro. 
It's the unforeseen events that kill you.  So the travel day starts by our taxi driver not showing up at all last Thursday.  Fortunately, it was arranged through our dear friends Leah and Greg who had come by early that morning with their children Sierra and Rio to say goodbye.  Greg being the incredibly awesome guy he is offered to drive us to drive us to the boarder in the red dragon, his well worn Mitsubishi pickup truck that stopped logging miles when the odometer broke at 234K.  The second hiccup was being stopped at check point by a local yokel right before Rivas a small town at the midway point we usually do our weekly shopping at.  The officer was clearly looking for bribe after doing an inspection on the vehicle and finding a couple of tail lights out, but Greg didn't bite.  After 30 minutes a ticket and confiscated license, we were on our way.  Greg was pretty heated and rightly so as this is clearly reverse profiling that happens all the time in Tola if you're traveling with surfboards visible in the car. 
After a brief lunch stop and a drive by past Lake Nicaragua with the two massive volcanic peaks of Ometepe sticking out of it, we arrived at the border.  It's about what you'd expect too.  A disastrous two lane road clogged mainly with semi trucks and busses.  We zipped by all these vehicles in the wrong lane to stop at a make shift fence that looked like something straight out of the second world war.  We were immediately bombarded by locals looking to help cart our 181 LBS of luggage and 65 LBS surfboard bag the mile distance between the border check points.  The guy we ended up with was pushy but effective shaving about an hour off our crossing by greasing the baggage check officials for $10 to let us pass go directly to the stamping portion of our exit.  We had to pay some overage which took some extra minutes, but within an hour we were trading our Sherpa for another since the ones we hired in Nica can't continue on past the midway point in the mile boarder purgatory.
 
Moving Bags & Rickshaw Ride at the Boarder:

Loaded up on the other side with a new cart we worked our way through the now spitting light rain amid the several money vendors offering to change US Dollars, Nica Cordoba's or Costa Rican Colones at a 20% fee.  We actually scored a great 4X4 Nissan taxi that sped us away onward to Liberia.  We were treated to sweeping vistas of the Santa Rosa national park that has several amazing volcanic peaks.  After our first police check point and a gas stop across the boarder there was a loud slapping noise that clearly signaled a blow out on the front passenger side where I happen to be sitting.
With the help of a friend who happen to be passing by our driver changed the tire with Indy like pit crew precision on the side of a sketch two lane highway with no shoulder and many speeding busses and trucks in the middle of nowhere.  We killed the 30 minutes by entertaining the boys, laughing about the day's events so far and snapping photos.  it was about to get a hell of a lot less funny though.
 
Blown Tire and Lowering the Spare:



Arriving at the Liberia Hilton at 430P which resides directly across from the airport, we unloaded and sent our driver on his way as we checked in.  After we completed the check in process, I looked at Melissa and said "you know what, I forgot my new water bottle in the taxi you just brought back from LA this week"  to which she replied "at least it wasn't the computer bag with our passports and all our electronics".  As her statement took a split second to register in my head, I quickly realized she assumed I grabbed this bag out of the back seat where she was sitting in with the kids while I was in front.  I had assumed she had grabbed it as she took the boys out of the back of the car.  I really could feel my head exploding knowing that our passports were in a taxi heading back towards Nicaragua.
Fortunately, Melissa remembered the taxi company and I was trying to remember the license plate of the taxi since I got out and was stretching at the gas stop.  The hotel staff realizing the urgency started making calls which ultimately ended up being the state police to alert the border checks that they needed to turn our taxi driver around to deliver the bag so we could make the 6A flight the next morning.  The police all knew our taxi driver as was evident when we rolled through both check points and they yucked it up letting us pass with our checking our papers.  The police verified his name and plate number before I even remembered snapping multiple snapshots of the back of the car during the flat that showed the plate as well #96.  A little lucky karma colliding with the crazy circumstances to at least get a bead on our driver since we had nothing else to go on.
As we sat down to dinner at 6P we were semi confident we'd get the bag back, but the big question was would it be in time for our flight.  Not a big deal on a major airline, but on a small local carrier flying 12 seat planes that only run to your destination twice a week it's a pretty damn big deal.  By the time we were wrapping up our hotel staff showed up with our bag while our driver was out front everything intact.  He had made it back to the final check point before being alerted and turned around to give us our bag.  I thanked him and gave him the same $90 rate it took to get us from the boarder for the return of our bag.
With the weight lifted from our shoulders, we got a good night rest before heading out to the airport bright and early.  Our flight was on a small 12 seat plane that had Melissa and the kids sitting directly behind the pilots and the instrument panel.  We were also treated to sweeping vistas of the ocean and volcanic peaks on the Liberia>Tamarindo>San Jose leg.  After a 4 hour layover we boarded another 12 seater which took off heading for Bocas Del Toro.  Jordan and Slater were extremely tired at this point and Jordan started to restlessly drift off beside me looking out the window.  He groggily opened his eyes about 20 minutes into the flight proclaiming that he didn't feel well.  Quickly, I opened a air sick back in the nick of time right before the redecoration of row #3 started.
Airport Breakfast, Front Row View, Beatiful Views and Small Plane - Big Fun!: 



 
Shortly after we arrived in Bocas to begin the search of our luggage and customs paperwork.  We then headed to our hotel for our first nights stay exhausted and happy.  The following day we went to our "Luxury Condo" to find it not so luxurious.  We're making it work, but have decided to spend the remaining 4 week on our trip to Bocas at an upgraded location and eat the month's rent because we are very disillusioned with the set up we thought we were getting.  Bocas looks like it will be one of the best adventures of the trip with lots of surfing, restaurants, carnival starting 3/1 and plenty of kid friendly activates like Red Frog and Star Fish beach.  More posts in the coming weeks on all four of the aforementioned. 
Making Rain in the Playa Tortuga Pool on the First Night: